Chapter 2: The Environmental Toll of Animal Based Materials
"Leather is the new meat.”
“I truly believe once people start to be exposed to the environmental impact the leather industry has, more and more people will be looking for alternative options in the fashion industry just like they are doing with their food choices.” - Desirée
2.1 The Truth About Leather
The truth about leather production reveals a harsh reality of environmental degradation and ethical concerns. The process of turning animal hides into leather involves a chain of events that exacts a heavy toll on the environment.
Deforestation and Land Use: Leather production is intrinsically linked to deforestation, primarily for cattle ranching. Vast swatches of land are cleared to make way for grazing, contributing significantly to habitat destruction and biodiversity loss.
Water Consumption and Pollution: The tanning process requires copious amounts of water, often leading to water scarcity in regions where tanneries operate. On average, it takes around 17,000 to 20,000 liters of water to produce just one kilogram of leather. This substantial water usage includes not only the hydration of the animals during their lifetime but also the water-intensive processes involved in the tanning and finishing stages of leather production. Moreover, the chemicals used in tanning—like chromium and other toxins—pollute waterways, causing irreparable harm to ecosystems and communities. Disgustingly, wastewater pollution is a by-product of the preparation phase; bits of flesh, hair, mold, and other animal by-products are mixed into wash water and discarded into the environment.
Greenhouse Gas Emissions: Raising livestock for leather production is a substantial source of greenhouse gases, particularly methane. As we know, these emissions exacerbate climate change and contribute to global warming. The carbon footprint of leather production is significant due to various factors, primarily related to the raising of cattle and the tanning process:
Livestock Contribution: Animal agriculture, a critical component of leather production, is a notable source of greenhouse gas emissions. Cattle, specifically, release methane during digestion, contributing significantly to carbon emissions. Estimates suggest that the livestock sector, including cattle raised for leather, accounts for around 14.5% of global greenhouse gas emissions.
Tanning Process: The tanning process involves energy-intensive procedures, chemical treatments, and transportation, contributing to carbon emissions. Tanneries often rely on fossil fuels for energy, further adding to the carbon footprint of leather production.
Chemical Usage: Toxic chemicals used in the tanning process, including dyes, finishes, and preservatives, pose health risks to workers along with surrounding nearby communities. The release of these chemicals into the environment leads to soil contamination and long-term ecological damage. Chromium-tanned leather is the most popular form of producing leather these days, and one of the most noxious. It relies on a toxic slush of chromium salts and tanning liquor. The leather industry releases large amounts of toxic chemicals and acidic effluents concentrated with heavy metals such as chromium, cadmium, lead, arsenic, cobalt, copper, iron, zinc, and manganese.
As a rule of thumb, tanning 1 ton of hide typically results in 20 to 80 cubic meters of waste water with chromium concentrations around 250 mg/L and sulphide concentrations at roughly 500 mg/L, not to mention the offal effluence from the preparation phase and the pesticides often added to keep mold growth down during transportation to the facility.
70% of an untreated hide is eventually discarded as a solid waste - the hair, fat, meat, sinew, all goes straight into a landfill. Leather has the greatest impact on eutrophication, a serious ecological problem in which runoff waste creates an overgrowth of plant life in water systems.
If the above described environmental impacts don't discourage you from leather; the profound ethical implications of the leather industry certainly might make you reconsider. The staggering scale of animal exploitation and the immense resource consumption associated with animal agriculture is overwhelming to say the least.
Animal Slaughter: Every year, the global demand for leather contributes significantly to the slaughter of an estimated 72 billion land animals, including cows, sheep, pigs, and goats. These animals are not only raised for their meat but also for their hides, making the leather industry a direct contributor to the vast number of animal lives lost for human consumption.
Many believe and argue that leather is a by-product of the meat industry. However, contrary to what meat champions may have you believe, animal leather is not a “meat by-product”, it is a lucrative co-product that props up polluting animal agriculture, raising its total value.
Resource Consumption: The leather industry's reliance on animal agriculture amplifies its ethical concerns through the extensive consumption of resources:
Fish for Animal Feed: Over 300,000 tons of fish are caught annually to produce feed for livestock, particularly cattle. This mass consumption of marine life contributes to ecosystem depletion and disrupts ocean biodiversity, impacting entire aquatic ecosystems.
Land Use for Animal Feed: Animal agriculture requires vast amounts of land for crop cultivation to feed livestock. An estimated one-third of all arable land worldwide is used for animal feed production. This immense land usage for feed crops not only leads to deforestation and habitat destruction, but also contributes to global food insecurity by diverting resources away from direct human consumption. Cattle ranching is the largest driver of Amazon deforestation.
These statistics underscore the ethical dilemmas inherent in the leather industry, revealing the interconnectedness between leather production, animal agriculture, and the consequential environmental and ethical impacts. By recognizing the far-reaching effects of animal exploitation and the environmental strain caused by the demand for animal-derived products like leather, there's an opportunity for individuals and industries to pivot towards ethical and sustainable alternatives that prioritize compassion, environmental stewardship, and the well-being of both animals and the planet. Cow-derived leather has almost three times the negative environmental impact as its synthetic counterparts, including polyurethane (PU) leather.
2.2 Leather’s Bad Brother
While leather often takes center stage in discussions about animal-derived materials in fashion, it's far from the only one. Lurking beneath the surface of seemingly innocuous garments and accessories lies a hidden menagerie of animal ingredients. Let's peel back the layers and explore some common animal-based materials beyond leather, along with the ethical and environmental concerns associated with their use.
Wool is a familiar material in sweaters, scarves, and coats. It’s important to know that the shearing process can be painful and stressful for sheep, with some farms employing cruel practices like mulesing to prevent flystrike. Additionally, the wool industry contributes to water pollution, soil erosion, and greenhouse gas emissions. While a cozy wool sweater might feel warm and comforting, the reality behind its production can be anything but. Here's a closer look at the animal cruelty often involved in wool, beyond just the shearing process:
Mulesing: This gruesome practice, prevalent in countries like Australia, aims to prevent flystrike, a potentially fatal condition caused by maggots attracted to sheep's rear ends. It involves cutting large chunks of skin and flesh from their backsides, often without painkillers. The wounds are left raw and exposed, causing immense pain and suffering.
Rough Shearing: Due to pressure to prioritize speed and efficiency, sheep are often subjected to rough handling and strong mistreatment of these adorable animals. This can include kicking, punching, and slamming them to the ground, leading to cuts, tears, and even broken bones.
Live Export: Many sheep, particularly from Australia, are subjected to long, agonizing live export journeys to countries with weaker animal welfare regulations. These cramped, unsanitary journeys can last for weeks, with sheep suffering from dehydration, heat stress, and disease.
Painful Mutilations: Beyond mulesing, young lambs often endure tail docking, earmarking, and castration without proper pain relief. These procedures, deemed necessary for farm management, inflict unnecessary suffering on sweet, vulnerable animals, and it is just heart-breaking to think about.
High Mortality Rates: The pressure to maximize profits can lead to overcrowding and neglect, resulting in high lamb mortality rates. In some countries, up to 10% of lambs may die within their first year due to inadequate care and nutrition.
These are just some of the harsh realities behind wool production. While ethical wool initiatives exist, ensuring humane treatment throughout the supply chain remains a significant challenge. Choosing plant-based alternatives or opting for second-hand wool are conscious steps towards a more compassionate and sustainable wardrobe.
2.3 The Dark Side of Suede
Suede, with its velvety touch and luxurious feel, is a coveted material found in garments, shoes, and even furniture. Behind its undeniable beauty lies a complex story, intertwined with both animal cruelty and environmental destruction.
Unlike regular leather, which utilizes the tough outer layer of animal skin, suede comes from the underside. Lambs, goats, calves, and even deer are commonly used in its production.
Factory Farming: The majority of suede comes from animals raised in factory farms, subjected to cramped, filthy conditions devoid of natural light and fresh air. They endure routine tail docking, castration, and branding without proper pain relief.
Slaughter: The journey ends with a brutal death at slaughterhouses. Some animals, including lambs and calves, may even be skinned while still conscious, experiencing unimaginable pain and terror; which is absolutely atrocious.
Chemical Processing: Similarly to leather, the animal hides undergo a harsh chemical tanning process, often involving Chromium Hexavalent, a toxic substance linked to respiratory problems and cancer in tannery workers. This process produces hazardous waste, polluting waterways and harming ecosystems.
Environmental Impact: Beyond animal suffering, suede production carries a heavy environmental burden, again like its leather counterpart. Deforestation occurs to create grazing land for animals, while water pollution arises from tannery waste and livestock urine and manure.
- Deforestation: Large tracts of land are cleared for grazing animals, contributing to deforestation and habitat loss.
- Water Pollution: Tannery waste and livestock urine and manure pollute waterways, harming aquatic ecosystems.
- Chemical Hazards: Chromium Hexavalent, a common tanning agent, is linked to respiratory problems and cancer in tannery workers.
To understand how this material is made, here is a brief overview of how animal skin is transformed to suede.
- Dehairing: First, the hair follicles are removed using chemicals or enzymes.
- Tanning: The hide is treated with tannins, natural or synthetic substances that preserve and strengthen the material.
- Fleshing: Any remaining flesh or tissue is scraped off.
- Splitting: The hide is often split into two layers, with the top part used for regular leather and the bottom part (suede).
- Buffing: The suede side is buffed with sandpaper or abrasive stones, raising the fine fibers and creating that characteristic soft nap.
- Finishing: Depending on the desired look, the suede may be dyed, oiled, or waxed.
2.4 Forget Fur
Fur, once synonymous with luxury and opulence in the fashion industry, has now thankfully become a subject of intense scrutiny and ethical debate due to the inherent animal cruelty associated with its production. Traditionally sourced from animals like minks, foxes, rabbits, and chinchillas, the fur industry has faced mounting criticism for its treatment of animals and the environmental impact of fur farming. As such, the fashion industry has witnessed a shift towards faux fur and ethical alternatives, reflecting a growing awareness of cruelty-free and sustainable fashion choices.
The process of obtaining fur involves raising animals in captivity, subjecting them to cramped and unsanitary conditions. These animals endure stressful environments, leading to psychological distress and physical ailments. Methods such as electrocution, gassing, and neck-breaking are employed to harvest the fur, causing immense suffering to the animals involved.
One of the most controversial aspects is the use of fur farms, where animals are raised solely for their pelts. These farms are notorious for prioritizing profit over animal welfare, resulting in inhumane practices such as crowded living conditions, lack of veterinary care, and brutal killing methods.
In response to the ethical concerns surrounding fur, a growing movement within the fashion industry advocates for cruelty-free alternatives. Faux fur, made from synthetic materials, has gained popularity as a humane and environmentally conscious alternative. Technological advancements have allowed for the creation of faux fur that closely mimics the texture and appearance of real fur without contributing to animal suffering.
Countries and regions have taken legislative steps to address the ethical implications of fur farming. Some places have implemented bans on fur farming, recognizing the inherent cruelty involved and aligning with shifting consumer sentiments towards cruelty-free and sustainable fashion.
The debate surrounding fur in the fashion industry reflects a broader shift in consciousness, emphasizing the importance of ethical considerations and responsible practices. As the industry continues to evolve, there is a growing recognition that fashion can be both chic and compassionate, paving the way for a more ethical and sustainable future. We can only hope to see this kind of movement and shift happen towards leather, suede and wool as well!
2.5 Silk, Down, Pearls, & Bones
In the realm of fashion, as we know various materials derived from animals have played a historical and cultural role, each possessing unique qualities that contribute to the diversity of textures and aesthetics in garments and accessories. Beyond what has been described above, here are some other sneaky materials that also raise ethical concerns.
Silk, harvested from silkworms' cocoons, stands as a luxurious fabric known for its smooth texture and natural sheen and has long been prized for its elegance. However, conventional silk production involves boiling silkworms alive in their cocoons, a practice raising serious ethical concerns. Additionally, the industry requires large amounts of water and pesticides, posing environmental risks.
Down, sourced from ducks or geese, provides lightweight insulation in clothing and bedding due to its thermal properties. However, the down industry has faced scrutiny for practices like live-plucking and force-feeding in some cases, prompting a push towards more ethical sourcing. Puffy jackets and cozy bedding often rely on down and feathers for warmth. However, like with wool, the birds supplying these materials may be subjected to cruel practices like live-plucking. Additionally, the down industry has been linked to environmental damage from bird waste and water pollution.
Pearls, prized for their lustrous beauty, originate from oysters or mollusks. Cultured pearls are produced through a human-initiated process, while natural pearls form organically. The demand for pearls has led to sustainability concerns and ethical considerations regarding marine ecosystems. Sparkling jewelry and decorative accents sometimes feature pearls and shells. However, pearl farms often confine oysters in cramped cages, and some shell harvesting methods can be destructive to marine ecosystems.
Bones and horns contribute to ornamental aspects in fashion, used for buttons, jewelry, and accessories. To reduce environmental impact and support sustainable practices, there's a growing trend towards ethical alternatives like vegetable ivory, derived from tagua nuts. Buttons, jewelry, and even guitar picks may be made from animal bones and horns. While these materials are often considered by-products of the meat industry, their use still contributes to the demand for animal products, with potential ethical concerns.
In navigating the complexities of animal-derived materials, contemporary fashion is witnessing a transition towards cruelty-free alternatives and sustainable practices. This evolution reflects a broader commitment within the industry to align with ethical, environmental, and animal welfare considerations in response to changing consumer values. The previous sections describe the ethical concerns with traditionals materials used in the fashion industry and this being a playbook for ethical AND sustainable fashion, we must not forget about animal-free materials that have a history of being detrimental to the environment.
2.6 Challenges in Conventional Cotton Production
Cotton, a fiber with an ancient history, has played a pivotal role in shaping civilizations and economies. The cultivation of cotton dates back to ancient times in the Indian subcontinent and from there, the knowledge and practice of cotton cultivation spread across the world through trade and migration.
The Industrial Revolution marked a turning point for cotton, transforming it into a globally traded commodity while the demand for cotton textiles soared.
Cotton production is a major global industry posing significant environmental and human health challenges. The cultivation of conventional cotton typically involves intensive use of synthetic pesticides, insecticides, and chemical fertilizers. These agrochemicals contribute to soil degradation, water pollution, and pose health risks for both farmers and nearby communities. Moreover, cotton is a water-intensive crop, and its cultivation often leads to excessive water usage and depletion of water resources. In many cotton-producing regions, water scarcity is a pressing concern, and the conventional cotton industry exacerbates this issue.
The reliance on genetically modified (GM) cotton varieties further complicates the environmental landscape. While GM cotton can be resistant to certain pests, it raises concerns about biodiversity loss and the emergence of resistant pests over time; impacting overall ecological balance.
Amid growing concerns about the environmental and health implications of conventional cotton, the organic cotton movement emerged as a sustainable alternative. Organic cotton, in essence, is cultivated without the use of synthetic pesticides, insecticides, or chemical fertilizers. Instead, it relies on natural and regenerative farming practices that prioritize soil health and biodiversity; such as emphasizing crop rotation, companion planting, and the use of organic matter to maintain soil fertility and health.
Reduced Environmental Impact: The absence of synthetic chemicals in organic cotton farming minimizes soil and water contamination. This leads to healthier ecosystems, preserves biodiversity, and mitigates the impact on surrounding wildlife.
Healthier for Farmers and Communities: Organic cotton farming promotes the well-being of farmers and nearby communities by eliminating exposure to harmful agrochemicals. This results in improved working conditions, reduced health risks, and a safer living environment.
Water Conservation: While cotton is inherently a thirsty crop, organic cotton farming tends to use more sustainable water management practices. Techniques such as rain-fed irrigation and efficient water use contribute to water conservation and address concerns related to water scarcity.
No GMOs: Organic cotton is grown from non-genetically modified (non-GMO) seeds. This helps maintain biodiversity, as the cultivation of non-GMO varieties prevents potential ecological imbalances and the development of resistant pests.
Soil Health: Organic cotton farming focuses on maintaining soil fertility through natural means. Crop rotation, cover cropping, and composting are employed to enhance soil structure, reduce erosion, and support a healthier agricultural ecosystem.
The positive environmental and social impact of organic cotton extends beyond the farm. The absence of synthetic chemicals contributes to cleaner waterways, reduced soil degradation, and healthier ecosystems. Beyond this, the emphasis on fair labor practices and ethical treatment of workers in organic cotton farming aligns with principles of social responsibility.
As awareness of the environmental and social impact of conventional cotton production grows, consumers are increasingly seeking sustainable alternatives. The demand for organic cotton has seen a notable rise, prompting a shift in the fashion and textile industries. Brands and retailers are responding by incorporating organic cotton into their product lines, reflecting a broader commitment to sustainability and ethical practices.
Choosing organic cotton over conventional cotton is a sustainable and ethical choice that benefits both the environment and human well-being. The organic cotton industry prioritizes regenerative farming practices, fostering a more harmonious relationship between agriculture and nature. As consumer awareness grows and demand for sustainable products increases, supporting organic cotton becomes a pivotal step in promoting a healthier planet for current and future generations.
