Consciously Chic: Chapter 3 - The Problem With Plastic

Chapter 3: The Problem With Plastic

The main environmental problem in the Vegan Fashion industry is that simply because a product is made ethically does not inherently mean it is sustainable. Most of the non-animal alternatives used in vegan fashion are made with synthetic, petroleum based material which have harmful, damaging consequences on the planet. 

3.1 The Environmental Impact of Polyester Production
Polyester is EVERYWHERE. A synthetic polymer, it has become one of the most widely used synthetic fibers globally and has become synonymous with modern textiles, revolutionizing the fabric industry and shaping the fashion landscape. The history of polyester is marked by innovation, but it is also intertwined with environmental challenges and concerns for human well-being. 

In the 1940s significant progress occurred with the introduction of polyester fibers as a viable alternative to natural fibers like cotton and wool. The widespread adoption of polyester gained momentum in the 1950s and 1960s, coinciding with the rise of synthetic materials in various industries. Polyester's popularity surged due to its versatility, durability, and affordability. It quickly became a staple in clothing, home textiles, and industrial applications. The introduction of polyester blends offered a combination of desirable properties, making garments more wrinkle-resistant and less prone to shrinking.

Polyester is used extensively in various types of clothing and has found its way into numerous aspects of our daily lives. Here are some common types of clothes and other items made with polyester.

Shirts and Blouses: Polyester is often blended with other fibers to create lightweight, wrinkle-resistant, and durable shirts and blouses.

Dresses: Polyester dresses are popular for their ability to hold vibrant colors, resist wrinkles, and provide a smooth and sleek appearance.

Activewear: Polyester is a common material in activewear such as sports bras, leggings, and athletic tops due to its moisture-wicking properties and durability.

Outerwear: Many jackets, coats, and vests are made with polyester to provide warmth, water resistance, and durability.

Socks: Polyester is blended with other fibers to create moisture-wicking and quick-drying socks, especially in athletic and outdoor settings.

Underwear: Polyester is used in the production of various types of underwear, including panties and undershirts, for its comfort and moisture-wicking capabilities.

Sleepwear: Pajamas and nightgowns made with polyester are known for their softness, durability, and ability to retain color.

Swimwear: Polyester is commonly used in the production of swimwear due to its quick-drying nature and resistance to chlorine and saltwater.

Bedding: Polyester is used in the production of bed sheets, pillowcases, comforters, and other bedding items for its durability, wrinkle resistance, and affordability.

Curtains and Drapes: Polyester curtains are popular for their ability to resist fading, block light, and maintain their appearance over time.

Towels: Some towels, especially those designed for quick-drying purposes, may contain polyester fibers.

Car Interiors: Polyester is used in car interiors for upholstery, seat covers, and various trim components due to its durability and resistance to fading.

Luggage and Bags: Polyester is commonly used in the manufacturing of luggage, backpacks, and bags for its strength, water resistance, and lightweight properties.

Footwear: Some types of footwear, including sneakers and athletic shoes, may feature polyester components for breathability and durability.

Home Furnishings: Polyester is found in various home furnishings such as throw pillows, upholstery, and carpets.

Medical Textiles: In the medical field, polyester is used in the production of certain textiles like surgical gowns and drapes due to its resistance to liquids and ease of sterilization.

Despite its widespread use and popularity, the production of polyester raises significant environmental concerns. The process of creating polyester involves the polymerization of petrochemicals, most commonly derived from crude oil. This reliance on fossil fuels contributes to carbon emissions, a major driver of climate change. 

Dependency on Fossil Fuels: The primary raw material for traditional polyester production is derived from petrochemicals, which are fossil fuels. Extracting and processing these fossil fuels contribute to environmental degradation, greenhouse gas emissions, and the overall reliance on non-renewable resources.

Carbon Footprint: The production of polyester from petroleum is energy-intensive, leading to a significant carbon footprint. The extraction, refining, and processing of fossil fuels release greenhouse gases, contributing to climate change and environmental harm.This reliance on non-renewable energy sources further exacerbates the environmental impact.

Water Usage: Polyester production consumes large quantities of water, primarily in the dyeing and finishing stages. The discharge of wastewater containing chemicals and dyes can contaminate water sources, posing risks to aquatic ecosystems and human health.

Chemical Pollution: The chemical processes involved in polyester production release hazardous substances, including antimony, heavy metals, and volatile organic compounds. These pollutants can have adverse effects on air and water quality, contributing to environmental degradation.

Microfiber Pollution: A particularly pressing issue is the shedding of microfibers from polyester textiles during washing. These microfibers, which are essentially tiny plastic particles, find their way into water bodies, where they pose a threat to marine life and ecosystems.



Non-Biodegradability: One of the most significant drawbacks of polyester is its resistance to biodegradation. Unlike natural fibers such as cotton or wool, polyester does not break down easily, leading to persistent environmental pollution.

Beyond its environmental impact, the production and use of polyester also raise concerns for human health.

Toxic Chemical Exposure: People involved in polyester manufacturing may face exposure to toxic chemicals, including monomers and solvents. Prolonged exposure can lead to adverse health effects, such as respiratory issues, skin problems, and potential long-term health risks.

Endocrine Disruption: Some studies suggest that certain chemicals used in polyester production may have endocrine-disrupting properties, potentially impacting hormonal balance and reproductive health.

Microfiber Inhalation: Individuals wearing or working with polyester textiles may inhale microfibers, raising potential respiratory health concerns.

Recognizing the environmental and health challenges associated with polyester, the textile industry is increasingly exploring sustainable alternatives.

Recycled Polyester: Utilizing recycled polyester, made from post-consumer plastic bottles or other recycled sources, helps reduce the demand for virgin polyester and minimizes the environmental impact associated with raw material extraction.

Bio-based Polyester: Innovations in bio-based polyester, derived from renewable sources such as sugarcane or corn, offer a more sustainable alternative to traditional petroleum-based polyester.

Circular Fashion: Embracing circular fashion principles, which prioritize recycling and extending the lifespan of garments, contributes to reducing the overall environmental footprint of polyester textiles.

As the demand for eco-friendly textiles grows, there is hope for a shift towards more sustainable practices, including the adoption of recycled and bio-based polyester. With a combination of technological innovation, consumer awareness, and industry commitment, the negative impacts of polyester can be mitigated, contributing to a more sustainable and environmentally conscious future.

3.2 Pleather:  The Original Vegan Leather aka Plastic Leather

The story of vegan leather begins in the early 1900s, fueled by the need for durable, waterproof materials. Polyurethane (PU), a widely used plastic-based vegan leather, emerged as an alternative to address environmental concerns associated with PVC. PU is created through a chemical reaction between polyols and isocyanates, resulting in a versatile material that can mimic the look and feel of real leather. This synthetic material gained prominence in the late 20th century for its durability, flexibility, and breathability, making it suitable for various fashion and accessory applications.

Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC), another plastic-based vegan leather, has a longer history and was initially developed for industrial applications. Its versatility and affordability made it a popular choice for fashion, leading to widespread use in clothing, bags, and accessories. PVC is produced through polymerization, combining vinyl chloride monomers, plasticizers, and stabilizers. While it became a staple in the fashion industry, the environmental impact of PVC raised concerns over time.

PU is created through the reaction of polyols and isocyanates, forming a polymer that can be manipulated into various textures and finishes. It offers a more breathable alternative to PVC, making it suitable for clothing, accessories, and upholstery. The versatility of PU has contributed to its widespread adoption as a vegan leather option.

While PVC and PU provide a cruelty-free alternative to animal leather, their production and disposal come with a set of environmental challenges.

Resource Intensive Production: The production of PU and PVC is resource-intensive and relies on fossil fuels. This contributes to greenhouse gas emissions and further exacerbates the environmental impact, contributing to climate change.

Toxic Runoff: The manufacturing process, especially in the case of PVC, can result in the release of toxic runoff containing chlorine and other chemicals. This runoff poses risks to water sources, affecting aquatic ecosystems and potentially harming human communities downstream.

Toxic Chemicals: The production and use of plastic-based vegan leather involve exposure to toxic chemicals. During manufacturing, the release of harmful substances such as phthalates and dioxins poses health risks to workers and surrounding communities. Prolonged exposure to these chemicals may lead to respiratory issues, skin irritation, and other adverse health effects. Phthalates have been linked to endocrine disruption; these substances may interfere with hormonal balance, potentially impacting reproductive health and contributing to long-term health concerns. PVC production involves the use of chlorine and plasticizers, which can release harmful chemicals during manufacturing and throughout the product's life cycle. These chemicals can contribute to air and water pollution, posing risks to human health and ecosystems.

Chlorine Gas Production: The production of PVC results in the release of chlorine gas, a toxic substance associated with respiratory and environmental issues. Proper handling and disposal are crucial to mitigate these risks.

Non-Biodegradability: One of the significant drawbacks of PVC and PU is their resistance to biodegradation. Unlike natural materials that break down over time, these synthetic alternatives persist in the environment, contributing to long-lasting waste issues.

Microplastic Pollution: Over time, plastic-based vegan leather degrades into microplastic particles, particularly in marine environments. These microplastics pose threats to aquatic life, entering the food chain and potentially impacting ecosystems and human health.

As awareness of environmental issues grows, consumers are becoming more mindful of the impact of their purchasing choices. While vegan leather offers a compassionate option for those seeking alternatives to animal products, it's essential to consider the broader environmental implications. Recognizing the negative impacts of plastic-based vegan leather, the fashion industry and consumers are increasingly seeking more sustainable alternatives.

Thankfully, the world of fashion is embracing innovation and offering a plethora of cruelty-free and eco-friendly alternatives to animal-based materials other than plastic based synthetics.Plant-based leathers made from pineapple leaves, cactus, mushrooms, and even grapes are gaining traction, while recycled materials and innovative fabrics are pushing the boundaries of sustainable fashion.

3.3 Timeline of Vegan Leather Evolution

In recent years, the fashion industry has been undergoing a transformation driven by growing consumer awareness of sustainability and ethical concerns, as outlined in the previous chapter. One of the most significant developments in this revolution has been the rise of vegan leather, championed by designers like Stella McCartney. 

The journey towards sustainable alternatives to animal leather has been a long and evolving one. Here’s a look at the timeline of key milestones in the development of vegan leather. 

• Early 20th Century: The first synthetic leather-like materials emerge, typically made from plastics PVC/PU as outlined earlier. While these materials offered some cruelty-free alternatives, they often lacked the quality and durability of genuine leather.
  
  
• Late 20th Century: Innovations in synthetic leather production led to the creation of more realistic and sustainable options. However, they were still far from being mainstream in the fashion industry.
  
  
• 2001: Stella McCartney, a pioneer of sustainable fashion, launched her eponymous brand with a strong commitment to cruelty-free, eco-friendly materials. Her influence was instrumental in popularizing vegan leather in high-end fashion.
  
  
• Mid-2010s: Advances in material science and sustainable technologies gave rise to a new generation of vegan leather, made from innovative sources such as mushroom mycelium, (Myco Works) pineapple fibers (Piñatex), cactus leaves (Desserto) along with recycled plastics.
  
  
• 2020s: Vegan leather begins to gain significant traction in the fashion industry, with major luxury brands incorporating it into their collections. This marks a turning point in the fashion world's approach to sustainability.

Stella McCartney, the renowned British designer and daughter of music legend Paul McCartney, has played a pivotal role in promoting vegan leather within the fashion industry. Since the launch of her brand in 2001, McCartney has been a vocal advocate for ethical and sustainable fashion practices. She has consistently incorporated vegan leather into her collections, proving that cruelty-free materials can be luxurious and stylish.

In addition to her commitment to vegan leather, Stella’s brand has also been a leader in sustainable practices, including using organic cotton, minimizing waste, and reducing the carbon footprint of her products. Her dedication to ethical fashion has inspired a new generation of designers and consumers to reconsider their choices.

3.4 Innovations in Vegan Leather

As consumer demand for sustainable fashion grows, researchers and innovators are continually pushing the boundaries of vegan leather production to include more bio based plant material and less petroleum. Some of the most exciting innovations include the following.

Mushroom Leather (Mycelium Leather): Created from mycelium, the root structure of mushrooms, this material is grown in controlled environments using agricultural waste. Once fully developed, it forms a dense, leather-like material that is not only biodegradable but also highly versatile, allowing for various textures and colors.

The production of mushroom leather is environmentally friendly, as it requires fewer resources and generates minimal waste compared to traditional leather manufacturing. It circumvents the ethical concerns associated with animal leather and avoids the environmental impact of synthetic leather production. Mycelium offers a promising alternative. It grows quickly on sawdust, which is compostable, and does not require energy-intensive inputs, such as high heat or intense light. Mycelium sheets can be grown to the exact size needed to produce an item, eliminating waste. The finished product is also biodegradable, making it a prime example of circular production

Several companies are at the forefront of developing and incorporating mushroom leather into their products. Notable examples include MycoWorks , a pioneer in the field with the development of Reishi™ and MycoFutures, a Canadian mushroom-cultivation business founded in 2019 by gourmet mushroom farmers.